The Cocktail Kitchen: Novice Seminar 101

06. Oct, 2009 0 Comments

Over the weekend, I had the opportunity to share a curriculum with an interested audience at Victoria’s Art of the Cocktail. With the help of Chef Jonathan Chovancek of Culinary Capers Catering, we were able to deliver 90 minutes of interaction, information and deliciousness. See the information shared below.

***for more information on “cocktail kitchen” the series, see www.therefineryvancouver.com/cocktail_kitchen, provided by Chef Ben de Champlain & Lauren Mote***

OCT 17 10
Instructors:

Lauren Mote
Media & Cocktail Specialist
The Refinery Vancouver & Lauren Mote Productions
1115 Granville St, Vancouver BC 604 687 8001
mote@therefineryvancouver.com
www.therefineryvancouver.com
www.laurenmote.com

Chef Jonathan Chovancek
Chef de Cuisine
Culinary Capers Catering,1545 W 3rd Ave, Vancouver BC 604 875 0123
jonathan@culinarycapers.com
www.culinarycapers.com

HOW DID COCKTAIL KITCHEN HAPPEN? SENSORY SCIENCE?
“How the French 75 changed my perception” – the first time the relationship between pairing wine/spirits with food succeeded
Analysis suggests that regional fare – meats, cheeses, preparation styles, produce – often pairs well with regional libations. What happens when you pair a glass of Alsatian Riesling with a bowl of Choucroute Garnie? Magic. Think about it – slightly petroleum nose – almost vinegary, high acid, citrus fruits, and thick mouth – should theoretically pair with a high acid braised cabbage and thick pork belly, no? There is a reason why these pairings work – all you need is the knowledge and an appropriate agent. The role of a chef is to provide this service – the sensory experience of thoughtful pairings, enhanced only by the addition of a beverage. The same is true of a bartender or sommelier – their role is to provide a sensory experience within a glass, whose character is only enhanced by the addition of food. It was just a matter of time before cocktails were to be built in the same fashion culinary creations are. This is cocktail kitchen – the integration of food and beverage science. The chart to the right, and listing below are amongst the simplest ways to train your palate. Awareness is the key.

Palate Training:       Sour/Acidic                 Lemon
Bitter/Tannic          Tea Leaves
Sweet              Caramel
Salt            Soy Sauce
Umami            Parmesan

Imagine all of these sensory characteristics together – would this not be grounds for the perfect cocktail? The perfect meal? The perfect glass of wine? Both together, when done properly, should be the ultimate experience.

HOW DOES THE BRAIN WORK?
“Taste begins when a sapid molecule binds with receptors or ion channels in the membrane of a papillary sensory cell (taste buds). Once the electrical potential of the papillary cell is sufficiently modified as the result of a series of reactions, the cell commences to excite neurons, which, little by little, convey information to the brain.” – Dr. Herve This, Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavour. Everything has a molecular code – hydrogen ions are “sour taste” (lemon juice?), sodium ions are “salty taste” (baking soda?).

Basically what Dr. This has summarized in the chapter of “Taste and the Brain” it was concluded that “taste” whether agreeable or disagreeable happens all over the brain in different areas, and does not exist in one specific “taste centre”. In a way that’s how the taste or smell of certain things can instantly bring us back to childhood or something nostalgic, or instant detest because you know exactly WHY you don’t like something already – aversions to cheese textures, thyroid issues and salt, lactose intolerance, etc. We are suggesting that listening to your body and brain can shed light of likes and dislikes on a individual-by-individual basis.
KNOWLEDGE & MANIPULATION?
The more we know, the more we understand, therefore the more we’re driven to find the truth. Think of something simple like scotch – it’s definitely an acquired taste, and there are many different styles. If I should say, “I dislike peated scotch like Lagavulin” then I take a seminar on scotch, find it interest and pursue peated scotch to discover WHY I didn’t like it in the first place, the chances are I’m developing a craving for it. Knowledge – and manipulating that knowledge into taste, and then tasting notes, followed by an obsession with peated scotch results in a LOVE FOR SCOTCH.
The same is true of foods. My grandfather didn’t like bagels because it had a hole in the middle – but he really liked Swiss cheese – littered with holes – after much discovery, and pushing to figure out “why” we realized he just couldn’t digest wheat very well. Interesting. Taste has EVERYTHING to do with knowledge.
Knowledge is power, I say.

DECONSTRUCTION VS RECONSTRUCTION?
Chef Jonathan’s inspiration and method to create a dish.
Lauren’s inspiration and method to create a cocktail.

COCKTAIL KITCHEN PAIRINGS: Do you compliment or contrast?
Contrast – Punch Buggy & Savoury Pumpkin Marshmallow, with Vista d’Oro fermented walnuts, fermented black garlic, chanterelle mushrooms, arugula
Compliment – Sake Sour & Cured Arctic Char, with Granville Island Sake, pink peppercorn cure, yuzu salad, chillies (Jonathan to demo Nitrogen Cavitation)

COCKTAIL KITCHEN – A mere concept becomes a success at The Refinery, and abroad.

Regional Pairings:   Mexico   Tequila
India    Gin
France   Brandy
Italy   Amaro
Caribbean   Rum
Creole/Cajun   Bourbon
East Europe   Vodka
Japan   Sake

Interesting Pairings:   White Fish   Gin
Chocolate   Beer
Watermelon   Tequila
Bitter Greens   Pastis
Mussels   Cognac
Black Tea    Amaro
Dairy    Rum

Cocktail Recipes:

Punch Buggy
1.50 oz Brugal Rum
0.50 oz Walnut Bitters
0.75 oz Lime juice
0.50 oz Falernum
0.50 oz Tea Syrup
Ginger-beer
Build over ice in a tall collins glass. No garnish,

Sake Sour
1.00 oz Victoria Gin
1.00 oz Granville Island Sake
0.75 oz Lime Juice
1.00 oz Cane Syrup
0.25 oz Grapefruit, Fennel Seed & Szechuan Peppercorn Bitters
1.00 egg white
Dry shake all ingredients together without ice, then with ice for 15 seconds hard. Pour into old fashioned glass, white pepper on top.

*Chef Jonathan’s recipes can be requested by email*

Good Books, Blogs & References:

“Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavour” Dr. Herve This
“Culinary Artistry” Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page
“Food Lover’s Companion” Sharon Herbst
“Cooking Issues – The French Culinary Institute” David Arnold
http:// www.cookingissues.com
“Khymos” Norwegian Scientist Martin Lersch’s blog, PhD Organometallic Chemistry
http:// blog.khymos.org